Now drop all the jets and brass colored shit in the jar with the acetone recap it and give it a good swirl and set it aside. Ok it's all dismantled how easy was that? Once that's set aside, stick your finger in the middle hole if it's a diaphragm type and pull it out don't grab the rubber diaphragm at all, if you tear that ya done fucked yerself. Now remove the top part of the carb, it's a jack in the box so anticipate a large spring popping out of there. Here's a good image of where the hidden A/F screws are if your don't have any seals someone's been tweaking them before and maybe changed out the jets from stock size already: And remove the pilot screws, there will be a spring a washer and depending on carb an O-ring once that comes out. If you have not found the A/F (pilot screw) then it's most likely under a small round tamper proof seal, get a wood screw or sheet metal one and screw it right into that little tamper seal you don't have to go far just far enough in to bite the seal then pull it out. The main jet sticks up in the middle of the bowl area, get out your flat driver and unscrew it, if it's in there good it's varnish welded grab your hypodermic get some acetone into it from the small jar and squirt it on all the brass you see in the carb, it knocks the varnish welds out instantly, then remove the jets use the small wrench on the emulsion tube, it also doubles as the main jet holder. There's a pin that holds the floats on, a small nail will help shove the pin out to remove the float, watch out for the float needle it just hangs on a small tab, if it's rubber tipped don't acetone jar it. Once the bowls are off, screws in one corner gaskets in the other, you'll see the float and main jet first. Those are the basic and really only two areas of a carb you need to deal with taking apart. Ok, I guess order will help, I do the bowls first then the needle jet diaphragm part last. Rubber such as gaskets in another corner. or you're going to have to bench sync them all from scratch, so it's easier to just keep them on the bracket. Best to leave multiple carbs on the bracket for the first time. Then start dismantling, all the exterior screws go to one corner of the pan you can put a magnet in the corner to keep them from being all over the place. Plop the carbs on the large sheet pan the lip so stuff doesn't make a break for it initiating a game of hide and seek. Once the carbs are off the bike, and shop rags put in the intakes, to keep bugs moisture and other curious critters out. A tiny wrench to remove the emulsion tube(s) Tools.flat head & phillips drivers that fit the screws and jets prefectly, slop will strip and scar, I replace those with cap head screws so an allen wrench can be used in the future hrd to strip one of those. Hypodermic doesn't need to be the needle type but it helps Acetone an amount of this goes in the small jar no need to fill it, but cap it or it'll evaporate quick.

Adjusting mikuni vm34 carbs